Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8,000-Meter Peak

By Maurice Herzog, Nea Morin, Janet Adam Smith

One of Sports Illustrated’s most sensible a hundred activities Books of All Time: A gripping firsthand account of 1 of the main bold mountain climbing expeditions in history.

Annapurna I is the identify given to the 8,100-meter mountain that ranks one of the so much forbidding within the Himalayan chain. harmful not only for its severe top yet for an extended and treacherous technique, its summit proved unreachable till 1950, whilst a bunch of French mountaineers made a mad sprint for its height. They turned the 1st males to complete the feat, doing so with out oxygen tanks or any of the fashionable apparatus that modern climbers use. the journey approximately rate them their lives.

Maurice Herzog dictated this firsthand account of the awesome trek from a clinic mattress as he recovered from accidents sustained throughout the climb. An speedy bestseller, it is still probably the most well-known hiking books of all time, and a permanent testomony to the facility of the human spirit.


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Early within the afternoon we trigger wearing huge, immense sacks. I felt in grand shape; the morning off had thoroughly rested me after the final 8 days of uninterrupted motion. The superb climate held. The tiresome and monotonous moraines stretched out for miles, and several other occasions one in all us slipped at the stones which have been treacherously lined with not easy black ice. shortly we observed a guy coming to fulfill us: it was once Adjiba bringing great information. Lachenal and Rébuffat had reached the glacier plateau! Rébuffat additional in his word that the way in which lay over rocks at the correct financial institution that have been effortless to climb. So the good ice fall of the north Annapurna glacier were conquer. With wish in our hearts, we moved quickly on. The temperature was once rather cozy and the within reach rocks mirrored the heat. The partitions of the good Barrier, in whose course we have been going, progressively got here closer. They have been soft and unclimbable, a salty somber grey. The moraine at the precise correct financial institution of the glacier, as so frequently occurs, provided a brief effortless course. Adjiba was once guiding us now, and by way of mid-afternoon we got here to a type of knocking down of the moraine which opened up and abutted opposed to the nice Barrier. We now needed to climb up the partitions of the appropriate financial institution. i made a decision that this position will be the place the porters needs to cease. I made a fast comic strip to point as close to as attainable the long run website of the bottom Camp. It was once getting past due and we would have liked to make the plateau that night. After prime us alongside at a very good speed, Adjiba introduced us to the foot of the nice Barrier. A process of ledges lower through chimneys extending into couloirs enabled us to arrive the pinnacle of the ice-fall of the Annapurna glacier. We have been virtually exhausted through this march at excessive altitude and our sacks grew heavier and heavier. nightfall had fallen while finally we got here to the foot of a giant wall of ice the place the 1st occasion had pitched their tent at a peak of approximately 16,700 toes; this used to be to be the longer term Camp I. every person welcomed us within the optimum spirits. shall we see not anything at present of evening, yet they advised us: “There’s no longer a shadow of doubt; we should be in a position to wake up Annapurna. ” bankruptcy IX ANNAPURNA AN spectacular SIGHT greeted me subsequent morning. Lachenal and Rébuffat have been sitting open air on a dry rock, with their eyes riveted on Annapurna. A surprising shout introduced me out of my tent: “I’ve chanced on the direction! ” cried Lachenal. I went as much as him, blinking within the glare. For the 1st time Annapurna used to be commencing to demonstrate its secrets and techniques. the large north face with all its rivers of ice shone and sparkled within the mild. by no means had I obvious a mountain so extraordinary in all its proportions. It used to be a global either incredible and menacing; the attention used to be misplaced in its immensities. yet for as soon as, we weren't being faced with vertical partitions, jagged ridges and putting glaciers which placed an finish to all hopes of mountain climbing. “You see,” defined Lachenal, “the problem... is to get to that sickle-shaped glacier excessive up at the mountain. to arrive the foot of it with out threat of avalanches, we’ll need to cross up good over at the left.

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